“She went outside and set off in the direction of the embankment. She wanted to see the Vltava. She wanted to stand on its banks and look long and hard into its waters, because the sight of the flow was soothing and healing. The river flowed from century to century, and human affairs play themselves out on its banks. Play themselves out to be forgotten the next day, while the river flows on.”
Milan Kundera, The Unbearable Lightness of Being
In early May, I continued my holiday from Istanbul to Prague. It wasn’t easy to get to Prague from Tbilisi, at least without paying an arm and a leg. People there asked me why I was visiting, and why I suffered three flights each way to get there. The answer was not for the night life, or the pilsner, or even the beauty of the city. It was for the culture.
My favorite author is Milan Kundera. His Unbearable Lightness of Being is my favorite novel. There are pages of my diary devoted to his quotes. I geek out over Tom Stoppard’s Rock ‘n’ Roll, The Plastic People of the Universe, and Charter 77. I can recite the names of most of the leaders of the Czech Republic (and Czechoslovakia) for the last century. I get teary-eyed when watching footage of the Velvet Revolution, Prague Spring, or hearing the story of Jan Palach’s self-immolation. The Czech language, which I consider the most endearing of the Slavic tongues, gives me butterflies. And my favorite class at Harvard was “Czech Culture Under Communism,” taught by Jonathan Bolton.
Needless to say, this trip to Prague was long overdue.
To my surprise, I didn’t spend my time in Prague staring contemplatively at the Vltava River. Instead, I enjoyed a good amount of beer, dancing, and great conversation in restaurants, bars, and clubs with an eclectic crowd of travelers and locals. I stayed at the warmest and most uplifting hostel I’ve ever encountered, Hostel One Home, where I practiced my Spanish with the marvelously latino manager and employees. I spent far too much money on Soviet chotchkies at the Museum of Communism. I’m still pondering a relocation.
One particularly interesting conversation took place while I was waiting for a friend (who never showed) at a quirky dive bar called Duende. After drinking a beer by myself, I decided to strike up a conversation with some young Czechs, who I assumed (correctly) spoke English. After exchanging the basics (name, hometown, college major, occupation) and a bit of bantering with a handsome blue-eyed man, he told me “You are SO typically American.” I was surprised and, admittedly, offended, because of both his tone and the fact that I have never been called “typically American” in my life. He proceeded to explain why Americans are less educated and “clever” than Europeans, based on an video on YouTube showcasing Americans’ embarrassing ignorance of geography and world affairs. I wanted to scream “I’m not like them! Quiz me on Czech history, I dare you!”, but instead, I probed with more questions about his opinions of my countrymen and tried my best to explain their inaccuracy. After an hour or so, I managed to dispel a few of his (mis)conceptions, but not all, perhaps deservedly.
This wasn’t the first time I’d discovered a distaste for Americans, and it won’t be the last. Naturally, it pains me to hear it. But it doesn’t make me want to hide my citizenship or swap my passport. Instead, it encourages me to share my story and my mixed relationship with my homeland with more people, in hopes of building friendships and changing negative perceptions.
For those who are interested in learning more about Czech culture and history, I recommend these gems:
- The Joke (1967), a novel by Milan Kundera
- Rock ‘n’ Roll: A New Play (premiered 2006), a play by Tom Stoppard
- Closely Watched Trains (1966), a film directed by Jirí Menzel
- A Report on the Party and the Guests (1966), a film directed by Jan Nemec
- Kolya (1996), a film directed by Jan Sverák
- Worlds of Dissent: Charter 77, The Plastic People of the Universe, and Czech Culture Under Communism, by Jonathan Bolton
- Alexander Dubček’s chilling radio address to the nation (and breakdown) on August 27, 1968, following the collapse of Prague Spring
- The Power of the Powerless: Citizens Against the State in Central-Eastern Europe (1978), or any other works by the playwright, dissident, and politician, Vaclav Havel
For those of you who are equally interested in this corner of the world, what are your favorite aspects of Czech culture, history, art, literature, architecture, people, or your own special memories there?
Recently visited Prague, awesome place! People were friendly, plenty to see and everywhere is within reasonable walking distance. Cheap too! Liking the pictures too.
A really magnificent city, I was there in the autumn of 2012 on my way to Paris. As I like to say, that’s the kind of a city I would spend a couple of years living in…
I agree, vias4o! Prague does seem like it would make a happy home.
Reblogged this on Just Go Places.
liked and enjoyed prague last december. great destination
Wonderful article!
Thank you, dcopilu!
Meg,
Nicely put blog. Short, crisp and to the point.
I loved Prague through your eyes and would definitely visit it soon to experience it. Also, your suggestions on its culture would surely be on great help.
Lovely.
After reading your post (hear the American thing here too) and gazing at your photos, I’ve just added Prague to my list of places to visit. Thanks.
Glad to hear it!
Thank you for a wonderful article and photos about my country :). I am sending you a lot of greetings from Prague!
Beautiful photos! I am now a new follower! Happy travels!
Jess
halo !
wow. meghan# I like traveling too, when I found your blog, its like wake me up and invite me to get new travel.,
then I will share it,. wide shoot always the best ! you took nice pictures !
I love Prague, though I have never been there 🙂 But I don’t think Americans are stupid and fat. Nowadays the most economically developed country in the world could not be built by “uncultured, uneducated, shallow” people. The other words who Americans are. They are migrants from all over the world from various historical periods. But sadness comes out of the fact that USA’s foreign policy is very often and periodically based on military power against other countries or, what is the worst, on instigation one against other, e.i. when Georgia attacked South Ossetia in August 8, 2008. Now Georgia is totally under US’s interests. Don’t conceal yourself! Czeсhs (and other nations) do not like Americans for that, as well as they don’t like Russians for August of 1968.
Personally, I understand these are politicians and military types who are guilty of all kind of collapses and disasters, not.
But it is a matter of trust (http://bcove.me/l0whc4mb) how we all treat one another.
Ragards,
Ivan
Your blog is beautiful! Being a musician, Prague is at the very top of my list of places to visit. I teach music history and one of my favorite topics is the beautiful Musical Nationalism of the Czech composers. Just amazing.
Ooh, I have Prague on my list of cities I want to teach in .. And, yes, I’m a huge fan of the Unbearable Lightness of Being too! So sorry about the anti-American guy. Unfortunately the US became the target of a lot of jokes and bad press while Bush was in the whitehouse and it still hasn’t stopped much. Us Europeans do have a very shady view of the States which I don’t think a lot of Americans realise – I even came across some American travellers who’d sewn Canadian flags onto their backpacks to avoid political conversations with Europeans! That’s so sad. I love Americans now. 🙂 Much more warm and open and friendly than Europeans typically are.
Hearing about Americans putting Canadian flags on their backpacks makes me cringe. I am American and was told to do the same when I went to Syria in 2002 (after Bush called it part of the Axis of Evil). I didn’t and the Syrians were quite good to me, even at the border when I needed to purchase another entry. Some European travelers, however, failed to realized that the American attitude that they hated so much wasn’t going to found in an American backpacker in the Middle East. So, I got used to being guilty by association and just did my best to let them know that not all Americans were in love with George W Bush. I appreciate the fact that you don’t see all Americans through the lens of our foreign policy! 🙂
I don’t actively promote the fact that I’m American when I’m abroad, but I certainly don’t feel ashamed of it. I’m just cautious in areas where it might be dangerous. But in Prague, it became a matter of pride! He was so convinced that Americans are morons, I simply had to pull out the Harvard card.
I’m glad that you stood up for the more globally experienced of us! Believe me. I never advertise being American, but if asked, I tell. I will admit that I leave all of the clothing and footwear that would make me an American giveaway at home (not that I own much in the first place). 🙂
I absolutely love your photos and text! I am really interested in travel blogging as well. Your blog is extremely unique, and I am very impressed by the professionalism of the content and the images. My blog focuses on travel based on literary locations, but I find your perspective on traveling around the world very refreshing. I look forward to upcoming posts!
wow incredible!
Love your blog!! I am enjoying myself so much looking at your beautiful photos and reading your through interesting journey! I loved loved loved Prague so much I cannot even begin to tell you how much I agree! Wonderful experience! Thanks for taking me back to some great memories….
Nice article and nice pictures too I love the close up picture with the stained glass.
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I love The Unbearable Lightness of Being! So much culture, beauty of language, and honest evaluations of humanity wrapped in one book! Glad to know there are other fans out there as well! 🙂
Beautiful pictures Meghan, timely really as we have just booked a long weekend in Prague for my birthday in December!!! Its only ignorance that limits peoples perception of a country and culture. My experience of Americans and America has only ever one of complete acceptance and tolerance. Haven’t started my research on what to do or see yet, so would welcome any offerings. HOpe your well!
Recently, I was in Prague. I think that there aren’t many places nicer than Prague, I don’t think so (Although I didn’t see much). Atmosphere and beauty are unique.
Beautifull scenery……………………….
Wow, beautiful photos!
Oh, the reason that Americans may not be as friendly (commenting on comment above) is probably because they are often complaining they cannot find a Starbucks (I thinks someone should tell some of them that they left the USA some days back).
I am an American, and there is nothing more frustrating than hearing Americans complain when abroad.
Marvelous photos, as always! But I’m surprised you haven’t encountered anti-Americanism previously in all your travels. Perhaps it’s because you’re so charming! in general. I’ve experienced it many times in comments by individuals of several nationalities, often followed by something like, “But you’re not a typical American.”
I also love Milan Kundera, although Tolstoy and Nabokov are higher on my list of favorites. A difference in our ages, perhaps.
hola Meghan, me gusta la arquitectura de esos lugares; espero conocer algun dia, saludos.
Wow I haven’t been there in 30 kyrars and it looks as beautiful it
Not more than before. Gorgeous pictures Meghan!
Oh wow, I would love to hear about Prague in the 80s, Nicole. What a tumultuous time in its history. It would be very interesting for you to return now and compare.
I’m half Czech and it’s great to see that Czech Republic, being such a small country (and often people look at me blankly when I say I’m half Czech!), has made such an impression. I definitely need to brush up on my Czech history, even if I do inherit some of the traditions and culture!
Small place, rich history! Have you been able to visit yet?
Absolutely. Yeah, I went every year to visit family up until the luxury of family holidays ended! I plan to go again before the year is up – it’s now been too long since I’ve seen Prague!
Oh that’s great! I am really hoping to visit again some day in the winter, to see the rooftops and spires covered in snow. Seems like a fairyland. 🙂
That’s exactly what I’d love to see! I always debate which is the best time to go to Prague, summer or winter, but both times are magical in their own ways.
You’ve just reminded me that I need to read that book! (Unbearable lightness of being.) Thanks! Plus, pictures are gorgeous – what a beautiful city.
Enjoy it, Rebecca!
I spent the New Year’s in Prague and absolutely loved the vibe of the city. I had come from Germany so maybe that had something to do with it, but the warmth of the people, despite the language barrier, was really a great experience. As for debunking a distaste for Americans abroad…it’s tough, but that’s great that instead of wishing things were different you’re sharing your experiences. We get a bad rap thanks to the terrible media, but one-to-one dialogue is what can lead to a bigger change, so kudos!
Isn’t the energy in Prague wonderful? I was amazed by how much fun I had and how many new friends I made there. I’m secretly searching for a way to relocate there! 😉
Love the colour in these! I’ve been tempted by Prague before, and this has made my mind up to go!
I’m glad I gave you that final nudge you needed, Carl! It’s a spectacularly fun city. These photos fail to capture the real energy of the place and the people.
Inspiring post! I would love to visit Prague soon.
I hope you do, Dylan! Would have been quite a coincidence if the Rainwalker had been there for the massive floods last month. 😉
Wow all of your photos are amazing! I’ve never been to Prague but definitely want to go. I just reblogged this on my travel site, Take Ya There. Cheers!
Thank you, Paul! I hope you get to visit some day.
Reblogged this on Take Ya There and commented:
What’s your favorite destination in Europe? Yes, it’s a tough one…but pick one city and tell us below as a comment. Ours? Madrid or Florence!
Twinsies! Between you and me, we have quoted a good chapter of Kundera 😉 Abrazos desde la tierra de Marquez, amorcita-twincita!
Twin telepatheticness at its best! Mil besos. :-*
amazingly written and extra-ordinarily snapped. Loved reading it, and compelled to comment…
Thanks, Waqas!
Loved your photos, it brought me back to my college days and backpacking adventures. I was there for a week in the winter. I stayed at a family home for what would have been $30 USD for the week. Private room, shared bath, but the family cooked breakfast and did the washing every day. An old Santa-like man was the patriarch of the family and solicited his room and board to travelers arriving at the train terminal with photos and mime like gestures. He would also provide a free car ride locally every day – what a great family!
I can picture this Santa-like Czech man perfectly! What a great experience for you.
The Book of Laughter and Forgetting really stuck with me. Thanks for the other recommendations!
Kundera really has a way of sticking with you, doesn’t he?
Beautiful pictures of Prague. I had no idea that there was so much art there. We went during winter though, during the Christmas markets. Do you think Prague is nicer in summer than winter?
Thank you Christine! I think it depends on your preferences. I’m more of a summer girl in general, but I’ve been told that Prague in winter is like something from a fairy tale. I’ll just have to return and compare for myself!
Loved this post–I used to live in the Czech Republic–in a small town and then in Prague and it was wonderful to see all these pictures. I’ve read a good deal of what’s on your list, but didn’t know Dubcek’s address was online, I’ll have to have a listen (and see how my Czech is holding up–I tried to learn as much as I could when I was there but it’s hard to find opportunity to practice now). You might like the book “The Coasts of Bohemia” which is a history but with a cultural emphasis. I too love Kundera and have been meaning to re-read “The Unbearable Lightness of Being” for some time now–it’s funny as he doesn’t seem as well known within the CR as without. I was just thinking of “The Joke” as I recently read Children of the Arbat which starts out with a similar premise (in part) but in Russia.
How interesting, Sara! I would really like to revisit the Czech Republic and spend some time in smaller towns. I hadn’t heard of “The Coasts of Bohemia” or “Children of the Arbat”, but I will eagerly read them if I can track them down. Thank you for sharing!
beautiful
I haven’t been in Prague for 4 years but your pictures brought me straight back there. Great colour rendition, did you do much post production?
Thanks, travelecstasy! I usually do a bit of editing to my photos, but I try not to change the color too much. Mostly for brightness and cropping.
I have been in love with Prague since my first visit in the mid ’90s. I’ve been back a couple more times since then, and I always discover something new with each visit. At one time, I contemplated moving there to work on a book. Did you go to the Mucha museum?
Oh, Prague would be such a perfect place to write a book! I did not make it to the Mucha museum, but I saw plenty of his work throughout the city.
I also love Milan Kundera and ‘The Unbearable Lightness of Being’ is one of my favorite novels. Loved looking through your pictures of Prague. I’ve visited Prague only once in the wintertime and would like to visit again in the warmer months.
And I’m looking forward to visiting again in the winter, Magdalena! Cheers to another Kundera fan. 🙂
Your pics are lovely! I’ve been wanting to go to Prague for ages, looks so gorgeous! One day! 🙂
Thank you Gina, I hope you do visit there some day soon!
Have you seen “Divided we Fall”? One of my favorites from my Czechoslovakia/Yugoslavia/Georgia class 😉
I have not, Emma! I’ll check it out, if I can find it online.
Reblogged this on Dear Kammie Millie….
Thanks for the reblog, wenhui!
Stunning photos of my dream city!
Thanks, Daryl! Have you visited your dream city yet?
It’s still a dream. 😛
I do a lot of American myth-debunking in Turkey. The saddest one is that Americans aren’t friendly compared to the warmth of the average Turk, I think they might be right.
Very interesting, Sarah. The American stereotypes I usually hear are that we are uncultured, uneducated, shallow, and fat. It’s sad.